Blog - Recent

We've just added a couple of new circuits-

Blue- a bit harder than the previous blue circuit- font 5- 6b

Yellow-pink- an easier circuit up to font 4

We've also linked a couple of the 30 degree wall blues to create a really good Fr 6c ish stamina loop!

23rd July 2010

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A lot of regular users are spending the month putting in some training sessions on the moonboard. It's hard to imagine in this weather, but people are already thinking about preparing for the winter bouldering season. Feel free to come along and join in ( over 16s only- risk of injury for younger climbers)- lots of new problems in the book, as well as the existing moon schoolroom downloads

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Well done to local boulderer Steph Shepherd, who was competing in the British Bouldering Championships in Sheffield at the weekend. Steph finished 12th amongst very strong competition.

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We've just put up a new purple circuit- 13/14 problems, Font 6b-6c+. Though we say it ourselves, the problems are some of the most fun ones we've had here at this level! You can download the circuit here

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We are running an SPA training course based here at the centre over the weekend of 16th-18th July.  The course starts Friday evening, and finishes c. 5pm Sunday. Places are limited, so please contact us to book. You will need to register with the MLTE/ MLTW to attend the course, but a first aid qualification is not required for the training part of the course.

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Anthony and co. have been setting lots of interesting new problems across a wide grade range. Some real classics to try- we'll be uploading a sheet onto the website shortly to download!

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We are runnning another Outdoor First Aid course on Saturday and Sunday 17th-18th July, based at the centre.

The 2 day course meets the requirements of all the main outdoor industry governing bodies, and involves a large practical element, making it fun as well.

Cost: £120 + VAT

Pre-booking is essential- please contact us to book and for further details

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We are open normal hours over the bank holiday- 9.30-7 Saturday and Sunday, 12-10 Monday. We will also be running a holiday childrens club on Monday 1-3 pm.

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The next outdoor day is due on Saturday 8th May -if you are interested, let us know soon as places are limited. We are also running a two-day Welsh Classics Weekend in early July, where we will be climbing a range of famous welsh climbs, as well as giving an introduction to trad climbing. Again, places are very limited on this one, so book early. More information is available by clicking here

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We have now got a fully-functioning coffee machine that makes the perfect cappuccino, latte or macchiato. The last few days have been spent drinking lots of cups (purely in the interest of research) to perfect the mix, so come and try it out and let us know what you think!

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The moon board is now up and running, and is already proving popular as a hardcore training system. We have the original school holds on, together with a download of the problems, and a set of the newer moonboard holds.

The new holds are slightly easier/user friendlier (delete to suit!) so we should have a bigger range of problems by the time people have written up their sequences

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BRYCS 2010 Youth competition info now on website.

Follow the link to find out more on this National competition.

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We've added a few more top-end problems- some were finding the existing blacks too easy! There are new black and grey problems which are harder than the current bunch- details will follow and we'll put a pdf on the circuits page very shortly.

Also, we're adding a few more easy problems at the other end of the difficulty level.

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We've added Google Sidewiki to the circuits page- you can now comment on the circuits, whether you think problems are easy/hard for the grade, etc. Look for the speach bubble icon in the top Left hand corner of the page, click and add your comment or read what others have said.

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There are still some places left on the first aid course running here on the weekend of 23rd/24th January. Booking should be made through the course provider,  www.firstaidacademy.co.uk

It's a highly recommended course, valid for the vast majority of NGB awards, and has a strong practical slant so is very stimulating. It was certainly the most enjoyable first aid course I've been on for a long time.

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Round 2 of the winter bouldering league results are attached. 20 problems this time, but the standard of problem seems to have been a good bit harder than last time. thanks to all who participated.

Round 2 results

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The autumn aggregate has now finished, and congratulations to Angus Kille (Senior winner) and Dante Quartermain (Junior winner). Full results are on the attached file, thanks to everyone who took part

download/files/autumn_aggregate.xls

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We're busy re-setting all the problems this week- it's a mammoth task, but we're using the opportunity to add a splash of colour to some of our walls- the new colours are guaranteed to cure any Christmas hangover.

Percy Bishton and Jamie Cassidy are putting up a couple of circuits for Friday's bouldering comp. Elsewhere, we are putting in a specific circuit for younger climbers, who sometimes struggle on "adult" circuits.

Also, we are going to put the circuits on to our website as downloads, showing circuit cruxes, harder and easier problems in the circuit etc. You'll be able to print these off and have your own personal ticklist.

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We now have Gift Vouchers in for Christmas- these are available in a range of values, and can  be redeemed against any of our products or services. If you want to tretat someone close to you to , for example, a taster session, this makes life easier. Just hand over the voucher and the recipient can call us to arrange a time that suits them.

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As in previous school holidays, we are running extra childrens sessions from 1-3 pm every day (except on the three days we are closed!) Cost is £10 per child- just turn up and climb. There is no need for parents to remain with your child- nip off to the shops, have a coffee or just relax and collect your child a couple of hours later.

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Congratulations to Angus Kille and Abigail Smith who both competed in the BMC open youth competition at the weekend. Both managed to get through to the final- Angus was 10th in the Male Junior category, and Abigail was 8th in the Female Youth B (14-15 yr old) category. The event formed part fo the selection process for the British Youth team, and was attended by climbers from throughout the UK.

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In time for Christmas, we are expanding our range of stock, and we now have Mammut ropes at discounted prices.

9.8mm Single ropes are avaialble at:

50m    £95

60m    £115

70m    £130

80m    £150

These are available post-free, but as yet we don't have the facility to take cards via the web. Just call us with your card details!

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We've invested in a lot more holds- this time lots of screw-ons to complement our existing yellow/pink and Orange/green holds. This will increase the flexibility of what problems we can set.

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Anthony has been b usy finishing off the Orange/Green circuit with a few more additions. There are also some tough new yellow problems.

At the weekend, the first 15 problems on the aggregate competition are coming down, to be replaced by new problems at a similar grade.

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We are running extra childrens clubs over the half term holidays. These run every weekday from 1-3 pm, cost £10 per child. All instruction and equipment provided, just turn up on the day.

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Anthony has been busy adding a new green/orange circuit. Following our last major resetting, the general consensus was that we lacked problems to bridge the gap between the two easier circuits and the harder problems. This has now been addressed with the new problems, so thanks to Anthony for this.

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We had a visit from David Simmonite yesterday, who was here to take photographs for a climbing wall feature he is writing for Climb magazine. Not sure when this will be in the magazine, but keep an eye out for this. Thanks to all the people who turned up to selflessly pose for the photos.

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For juniors interested in competing, or for any sport-climbers out there, we're putting up a few quickdraws on Friday so people can trail a rope and practice clipping. Feel free to come along and give it a go (normal bouldering will of course still be taking place)

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We're a good way through setting a new purple circuit (although everyone calls the holds pink!)- it is a replacement for the orange/green circuit, with problems in the V3-V5 range. This time, though, we have bought lots of screw-ons for the problems to reduce the reach element in the problems.

The circuit is to keep people interested until we reset the entire wall- this is now less that a week away- 28th September is the planned day.

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Upcoming competitons at the centre include:

Autumn Bouldering Aggregate

Winter bouldering league- four one-day comps

Dates will be announced shortly on the blog/news pages, together with further information being posted on the competitions page.

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Stone Country, the Glasgow-based publishing company, have recently added to their titles with a smart selected guide to Fontainebleau. This has photos and a tick box for every problem covered, together with very clear maps which should prevent even the most incompetent getting lost.
We have several of these new guides in stock for anyone planning their next Font trip.

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We're having a 6-months opening party on Friday evening, 18th September. Barbecue (weather permitting), drinks and to kill two birds with one stone, we'll hold the prizegiving for the aggregate and any climb-off if needed in the event of a tie.  All invited, we hope to see you there!

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Another full set of holds are on the way, this time in bright purple. This means that we will be able to change the problems even more frequently, as we have a "spare" colour that we can swap with an existing circuit. (This won't affect the aggfregate, though!)

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There's currently a three-way tie in the seniors category, but with three weeks to go this will no doubt change!
Dante Quartermain is leading overall in the juniors section. It has been very humbling watching Dante demonstrate the problems to seasoned climbers who can't get off the ground on stuff he makes look easy. Sadly there are another four years of this to put up with before he competes in the senior category.

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Seniors as at 18/08

Surname Forename Score
Booth Ed 530
Cannell Rich 530
Fenwick Tom 530
Holland Robin 490
Bridgwood Daniel 460
Jones Simon 400
Shepherd Steph 370
Marlow Simon 360
Bradbury Simon 340
Roland Anthony 330
Roberts Steve 300
Hibbs Geoff (V) 230
Hesketh Aaron 220
Jones Sarah 220
Blincoe Peter 220
Rowley Jim 220
Harrison Mark 210
Chidlow Stuart 200
Veitch Emma 200
Dawson Josh 190
G Jonathan 180
G Jonathan 180
Fenwick Tom 150
Grant Chris (V) 130
Lynch Mark 120
Chambers Paul 110
Wroe Mikey 100
Bridinell Claudette 70
Forrest Jake 60
Bolton Joe 60
Forrest Jake 60
Kerr Rob 0
Milburn Nathan 90

Changing fast- I'll try to update again!

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Juniors as at 18/08

Juniors:
Surname Forename Score
Smith Abi 290
Quatermain Dante 280
Cooper Ben 240
Dean Adam 220
Phizacklea Gina 200
Mellings Joe 190
McMellon Anthony 190
Edwards Callum 180
Harrison Mark James 170
Phizacklea Adam 170
Harding Jack 170
Dean Laura 140
Henderson Jack 110
Cooper Michael 100
Asson Lucy 100
Gladwin Kyle 100
Buchan Ben yr6 80
Good Charlie 70
Williamson Hollie 60
Gladwin Duncan 60
Overal Peter 20
Harrison Amy 10
Good Lara 10

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We have received approval to run up to level 3 NICAS Award. NICAS stands for National Indoor Climbing Achievement Scheme. It is a structured programme for people new to climbing to follow, which leads to certificates on completion of each level. As the name suggests, it is recognised nationally and is the only scheme of its type. We are fortunate in being able to offer this- if you are interested, ask for details next time you visit. Logbooks are on order and should be in stock soon- these cost a nominal amount and will give you (or your child) something concrete to aim for.

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Several of the toprope routes have now been reset by Sam and myself- these vary from easy to Fr. 7a.

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Lots of people ticking aggregate problems, sprinting across the mat to sign their sheets, then going back to try some more! No-one is getting near completing the list yet, and with a month and a bit to go some people are starting to work the more powerful or stamina problems.
For younger (year 6 and under) climbers, there have been a few frustrations as they can't physically reach some of the holds. I've put in some extra small blue holds, circled in chalk, just for them. Everyone else- sorry, you'll just have to use the original holds.

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These are now up and running and proving popular- check out the front page of the website for times and prices. If you want something arranging at a different time, we can do this if you contact us : 01952 814566

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Plenty of people are entering the aggregate comp- there are one or two problems which might defeat everyone- I haven't had a chance to see the current scores as I'm in Kalymnos at the moment, where I'm tagging on a few days climbing to a conference I attended last Saturday.
Climbed yesterday at Ghost Kitchen- a fantastic crag with lots of steep tufa routes.

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The problems have been set, tags are on, I just need to print the scoresheets and the aggregate comp will be up and running. Various categories for adults and juniors, featuring many of the new problems Andy and Percy set this week.
It will be running until the end of June, so plenty of time to work on the more desperate problems (of which there are several).

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